Monday, September 7, 2020

Ljubljana: Europe's little treasure

We decided to book a room in a district a little bit further from the city center. This would be a good idea if you travel by car, because the street parking is only 0.40€/per hour till 17.00 on Friday, after that till Sunday it is free. It was also a good decision because we were able to have a nice walk to the town center through the Tivoli park, which is the largest and most beautiful park in Ljubljana. 

Ljubljana Castle with country and city flags

It has everything you could wish for in a park: playgrounds for the children, grand walks, relaxing places for picnic and sunbathing. There is even an outdoor gym. Here you can also find the International Center for Graphic Arts, which is actually an old mansion turned into the epicenter of the artistic world. Behind it is the Bistro Švicarija where, if you're lucky, you may share a drink with some of Slovenia's finest artists.
The "love" bridge with view to Plečnik 's
covered market an the dragon bridge

Then, heading the opposite direction and going only straight ahead you'll find yourself in the city center. Don't forget to pay attention along the way, while passing the wonderful buildings of the National Gallery on your left and the Opera House on your right. It's huge front alley then, joins one of Ljubljana's main street - Bleiweisova Cesta - which goes straight into the Old Town.

 
The Pink Church

Once you are at the sunny Old Town Square, also called Prešeren Square named after their national "hero", with the Pink Church and the Triple Bridge, the first thing that catches the eye, is the "cloud" installation in the middle of the square. It has two purposes, first, to refresh you during the hot summers and second, to show what the weather is like the rest of the time in Ljubljana. Apparently, it rains a lot and the fog stays for weeks every other season.
The next thing that grabs the attention were the maneuverable, bright white-green golf carts. It turned out that they were actually taxi cabs. When a few years back the mayor of the city turned the whole city center into a pedestrian zone, he made sure that people would still have a quick way to move around. So, he gave them these "taxis" for free and called them Kavalir (Gentlemen). If you need one you call them or just stop them when passing by. How cool is that! But let's not be lazy and continue on foot.
Look at the Pink Church more closely. This beautiful building used to be red once, but time and rain made the color fade to pink. People then actually liked it that way better and now, even by restorations, they keep the color.

Something really interesting about this city. Their national hero is not some brave general or smart leader, but a poet who didn't hide his love for a young girl. His name was France Prešeren. His statue is on the Prešeren Square - opposite the Pink Church, facing the house where his adored Julija used to live and where there's a small statue of her.

The Shoemakers' Bridge
 with the columns
Another "hero" for the Slovenes is Jože Plečnik. The architect who had a huge impact on the architecture of not only Ljubljana, but on other major European capitals. He is responsible for the many iconic places in Ljubljana, such as the famous Triple Bridge, as well as for the building of the National Library. While walking around the city, if you see a building with numerous columns, or a bridge with columns on both sides, supporting nothing, then you know that was Plečnik's creation

If you plan to look around the city by yourself, walk along the Triple Bridge, where the Information center is situated. There you'll find all you need for an unforgettable time at the capital. From very well-done maps for the city, the bee-path and the Roman Emona site to interesting fun ideas, such as axe throwing.



The Dragon Bridge
From there go left along will the town market. On Fridays they have Open Kitchen. It's way to "taste" Slovenia. A wide variety of restaurants offer their food on small stands, for reasonable prices. Bypassing it, keep left for the Butcher's Bridge and its padlocks of love. The next one is the more important one, the Dragon Bridge. Legend has it that Jason and his Argonautes built the city of Ljubljana and killed a dragon, which is now one of the four statues and that when a virgin crosses this bridge, all the dragons will fly away. To be honest, this was doomed to fail, because as we know copper bodies would be a bit heavy to fly.

Turning your back to the Dragons and looking up, you will see the Ljubljana Castle, towering over the city. Getting up there could be very easy by getting on the funicular for 2.20€/one way. Or it could be a little harder, going up on foot. It takes only 10min but it is really steep and a little bit slippery with all the small stones along the path. Either way, at the top, you'll find the best view to the whole city. Despite being really small, it offers a lot. The passages under the castle are not only cool as in interesting, but they are also a great escape from the strong sun rays. There are numerous galleries, where you could educate yourself better on the history of Slovenia, plus an even more exciting view to a third of the country from the highest tower, which would cost you only 8€.

St. Nicholas' Cathedral
Now, let's go back to the Dragon Bridge, still standing with our backs to it but this time turning right. This way, we'll get to the St. Nicholas's Cathedral. It's a really old church, which earliest mention dates back to 13th century. It also went through a lot. It was burnt several times, rebuilt, reconstructed, restyled by different artists from different epochs with different tastes. But this only made it more beautiful and more impressive. If you want to go inside, you'll have to pay a small fee of 2€, except when there are services held. But then, you cannot leave until the service is over, otherwise you'll be again asked to pay the fee.

A few steps down the same street, on the left you'll see a small narrow building, with the Slovenian and Ljubljana's flags and the one of the EU proudly hanging from the balcony. That is the Town Hall, sharing a wall with the City Gallery.
Go just a little bit further down this same street and you'll reach the Shoemakers' Bridge. It's old name was the Butchers' Bridge, because there was a butcher shop on it. But the stench of it was too strong and unpleasant for the Emperor, that he paid to have it relocated. The new merchants then became the shoemakers and that's how it received its new title.
The south door
 to St. Nicholas Cathedral

When you cross this bridge and go right you will make a full circle of the city, where the last stop is the University building with the Congress Square in front of it. It's a really nice place for a stop and chill, after a good walk.

Those are probably the most interesting, and of course most touristic stops in Ljubljana. But there's so much more to do here. For those of you, who would like to explore the city's rich history of artistic heritage, human creativity and technological progress make sure to pay a visit to the National Museum, where the oldest musical instrument in the world is shown. Then maybe visit the National Gallery with a plentiful collection of works by Slovene impressionists. Or make a quick stop at the City Museum, which is home of the world's oldest wooden wheel with an axle.


Despite being such a small city in such a small country, Ljubljana has a lot to offer. Every year the city hosts more than 14,000 events of culture, art, cuisine or sport character.

So make sure you packed your enthusiasm and readiness to explore and experience the contagiously vibrating and enriching atmosphere of Ljubljana, Slovenia.

No comments:

Post a Comment